Before my crit on Tuesday, I was already thinking about ways I could improve the floor palette painting as I felt it needed something, and already inquired about welding the stainless steel into the wood! But after Tuesday's session, which brought new ideas about creating a depression for the steel to sit in.
Rob suggested I talk to Jeff Pashley, but is not sure how feasible it is, you would need to program in each individual shape and it's location, and make sure there are no nails or screws in the way. It Might be easier to draw around them and cut, chisel or hand router out a depression.
Out of all the options, I think hand routering could work best but Jeff is too busy until next week, and then the work shop is closed from the 5th September which is cutting it too close to the deadline. I will try cutting and chiseling a sample piece though just to see how the end result would look.
Testing: Chiseling and Cutting out sections of Plywood
Reflections:
- I created a test piece similar to my palette using plywood, and first drew round a section of stainless steel, before cutting and chiselling it out.
- This worked so that the stainless steel could slot in, however, it took a very long time, and it wasn't very neat and left this brown wood exposed around the edge of the metal.
- After a big discussion with the technicians, we decided it would take too much time and effort to router out each individual shape in the board as it could destroy the painting underneath, and it would only create the smallest amount of detail to the image. Also, the process of placing the stainless steel in the first place was quite difficult and I'm not sure if they could go back in each area that they are in currently. I would have considered this if I had the idea a few months ago, but it's too big of a task to undergo at this point in the course.
However, thinking about alternatives to try and close the gap between the stainless steel and the board, we thought of the following:
- Epoxy resin: this would create a smooth shiny layer that would cover the entire surface of the board, and leave the stainless steel exposed but connected more to the surface. The downside to using this is the cost - it would cost £150 for the amount I need.
- Clear resin: This is much cheaper, but it would take months to completely harden and therefore, its prone to fingerprints and dust, and it would smell very bad which could be off-putting in the exhibition.
- Standard Resin: Again this would be even cheaper, and set quicker that the clear resin, but, it is opaque meaning the image on the board would disappear. Possibilities would be to paint over the top of the resin (meaning I lose the image that I have at the moment, and have to re-paint a new one entirely). I will have to test this out to see how much I could work with it.
- A layer of clear perspex over the top: This would just encase the steel and the board together, but after talking to Jeff he said that it would cost about £200 for the size and thickness that I needed.
- A layer of glass over the top: Again, heading in to vitrine territory here, it could add a whole new meaning to the artwork if perceived this way. Although, it would work well, be cheaper, and simpler.
Further Tests:
Testing Standard Resin (black):
- This did work quite well to close this gap, and it would be cheaper, but it defeats the objective of this painting, which was to show the painting underneath.
Testing Clear Resin:
- This worked way better than I ever expected.
- The fingerprints are noticeable but nowhere near as noticeable as I thought they would be, and if I am careful I can avoid fingerprints on the resin.
- I will try to limit resin use by not covering the steel as I want the stainless steel to be as shiny as it can be, and the resin slightly dulls the shine.
Testing Glass over the top of board:
- The layer of glass would cover the entire surface, encapsulating the image and making the board and the steel more connected, yet the gaps are still there, and I'm worried about the different look that it gives - connecting to museum vitrines.
- Although on a positive note, it does work well to give the whole image a high shine effect.
- I would also place a sheet metal frame consisting of mild steel around the entire edge of the piece so that it holds in the glass or resins, and links back with my mild steel piece, and canvas piece using a mild steel frame.
Sanding Down Pallete
Before Sanding:
After:
Testing placing stainless on the bottom of pallet:
- I don't feel like this makes sense or goes with the process of the image on the top of the board.
- The steel also looks quite dark with the lack of light.
- I feel like this is just 'decorating' the palette, and it doesn't need it.
- Adding the stainless steel underneath the palette felt like adding decoration and didn't fit with the piece.
Further sanding, down all the bottom sections of palette:
Reflections:
- The sanded palette looks much better and create a cleaner look. The process of sanding the palette reminded me of adding 'value' to the piece. It went from a worn out palette, to a perfect palette almost. It reminded me of the Japanese art of fixing broken things with gold leaf, and some of Susan Collis' work.
- Thinking about it, I have noticed that the edges have paint on (just like how the sides of the canvas were ruined with extra paint) and wondered whether to also put mild steel frame along the edges of this board too. I have tried to sand the paint off, but it still leaves marks.
- If I was to place a mild steel frame here, it would tie in with my other two pieces perfectly, but it could also transform the look - going from looking like a palette, to something more like a stage, or even more like a canvas.
Image of paint on sides of board.
I am thinking about placing a thin mild steel trim around the edge to cover this.